The first train ride...oy

I took my first-ever Indian train last night, traveling from 9:00 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. from Delhi to Jodhpur.

Two weeks ago I had booked a first class ticket online for a berth in an air-conditioned compartment and was told that the train system is efficient (they put your name on the door to the compartment you are in--so it should theoretically be easy to identify). Though I didn't expect the whole thing to be easy, everyone I've spoken to said they loved Indian train travel, so I was not worried, though I was cautious and got to the station two hours ahead of my departure.

The station itself was hectic, but I found my way to the platform and confirmed that I was in the right spot.

Well, the train arrives and I go to the First AC compartment to find my name....nothing.
I reread my ticket (check the date, time, station, etc.)...nothing bizarre.

I begin asking all of the train staff on the platform and they all read my ticket and run around looking for my name on the various compartments...nothing.

Eventually, they get the conductor (a large and very serious looking man), who tells me I do not have a ticket (despite the e-ticket I was holding in my hand, he says I must still be on the waiting list). He tells me this, tells me the train is full and dismisses me. Of course, I'm furious (it was late at night and I didn't want to have to go with my pack to get a rickshaw to a hotel, especially if my hotel from the previous night was booked. I also really needed to be in Jodhpur the next day so I could start work). So I simply begin speaking to anyone on the platform who seems willing to help...and the situation baffles them as much as me. I am telling the conductor that I will sleep in any class and even offer a bribe...nothing.

Finally, they offer to let me sit in the entrance to one of the cars (literally--squat next to the door for the night train) for about 300 rupees. I am more than willing to do this at this point--though it would have been atrociously uncomfortable--and luckily, as I am settling into my corner with my bags, someone comes to get me and offers me a seat in the 2nd class, non AC sleeper car. A bit nervous of what this car may be like, I happily accept.

Well, it was actually a great time, much to my surprise. Though I will probably pay the extra dollar or so for AC next time, the car was safe (full of families) and between the fan and the open windows, not too hot. Additionally, I was seated next to a really fascinating 24-year-old Indian man (someone who had also been kicked out of an AC car) and we spent the night discussing everything from partition to US politics.

So, all in all it was a success. And my guesthouse is absolutely delightful. Though there will be more on that tomorrow, for now: it is family run (with three adorable kids running around), has colorful Indian cloths covering the courtyard, has fantastic meals, is absurdly cheap (less than 100 a month including all meals and wireless), and is filled with fellow travelers and volunteers like myself who are staying long-term. It is also the site of a progressive NGO that helps to empower untouchable women, so I may be teaching English, crafts, and dancing with these girls in my spare time.